Tuesday, Sept. 4, 2018
Today was my most challenging day of kayaking; so far anyway. We awaken at Crash Canyon (mile 63) to the sound of someone trumpeting the conch shell, followed by the now-familiar “Good morning, Grand Canyon” echoing off the canyon wall, letting us know it’s time to rise and shine. Once you’re on the river, you don’t need a watch. The leaders let you know when it’s time to get up. And as trip leader Steve Mace says, we’ll have lunch at lunchtime and camp at camp time.
I pack my sleeping bag, pad and tent. By the time I trudge down the sandy hillside to the breakfast table, all the scrambled eggs are gone. I vow to not make that mistake again. From now on breakfast first and then packing. But no worries because there are still plenty of sausages and hash browns in the pans.
To pack the rafts, we form “bucket brigade” lines to load gear — tents, sleeping bags, camp chairs, and personal dry bags. This ritual is reversed at the conclusion of each day of paddling.
Mace gathers us together to give a presentation on the geology of the Grand Canyon, using sticks to illustrate the layers of rock. He then describes our upcoming day on the water. Like most days, there will be long stretches of flat water. In fact, 90 percent of the Colorado River through the Grand Canyon is flat water. But even the flat stretches of the river have powerful currents, and the rough stretches represent some of the most challenging navigable whitewater in the world. Today, according to Mace, we will face our most challenging rapids so far, including one called Hance.
Our first rapid of the day is Lava Canyon. This is not the famous Lava Falls Rapid. I’ll write about that monster rapid in an upcoming post. Lava Canyon Rapid is rated a “medium” 4 on the Grand Canyon scale of 1 through 10. Our four-man pod makes it through without incident (as do, as I recall, all our kayakers). It’s a good confidence-builder as we continue to improve teamwork guiding blind kayaker Steve Baskis down the river.
Three miles later and we reach Tanner Rapid, which to me seems more challenging than its “4” rating suggests. But again, after the adrenaline rush, our pod comes through right-side-up and cheering.
YOUTUBE: https://youtu.be/QqCMvijbaeY
At mile 72-1/2 the group stops at Unkar Creek, one of the most significant prehistoric archaeological sites in Grand Canyon. A short hike up and we are viewing ancient artifacts, mainly pottery shards. Jon, one of our AZRA leaders and raft drivers, impresses us with his knowledge and story-telling ability as he regales about the geologic and human history of this location. Despite my interest, I can’t help glancing downriver from our elevated vantage point at our next challenge, Unkar Rapid, rated a 7.
With its grand sweep and relative openness of the canyon walls, Unkar is one of the most photogenic rapids in the canyon. My pod launches in its normal formation with Eric in the lead. Eric gives Steve a final description of our line just before we float into the rapid. Eric continues to guide Steve by loudly chanting “hup! hup! hup!” over the roar of the rapid. During the swirling, we all manage to remain upright and regroup in the churning water at the bottom. High fives all around.
YOUTUBE: https://youtu.be/tA3ZamxraJc
Three miles later comes Nevills Rapid (6), named for Norm Nevills, who in 1938 organized and led the first commercial trip down the Colorado River through Grand Canyon. At first I’m not too concerned about Nevills because Mace didn’t have us scout it from shore. Most of the discussion that morning had centered on the biggie of the day, Hance Rapid so I don’t bother to turn on my GoPro for Nevills.
Our pod starts out in fine shape. Nevills is a long rapid with holes dispersed throughout. All we have to do is avoid the holes. At the top we aim to go left of a sticky hole in the middle. Unfortunately, we end up too far right. Eric manages to skirt around the hole on the left side. Steve hits the left edge of the hole but is able to make it through. I am behind and slightly to Steve’s right so I plunge into the meat. For what seems like 15 seconds (probably less) I’m stuck right-side-up but side-surfing in the hole and unable to break free.
I decide to try a roll, hoping that, once inverted, I will be flushed out of the hole. But when I roll back up I realize I’m in the same spot, still side-surfing the roaring hole. I try another roll. This time I extend my paddle deep down over my head to catch deeper current that might free me from the recirculation. Doesn’t work. It quickly occurs to me that Eric, Steve and Big Mike are probably moving downriver. If I don’t do something soon they will be too far away to help me. I don’t panic. I know the water is deep so there’s little chance of being dashed against rocks. It’s time for a wet exit and a swim.
Over the years I’ve had more than my share of swims in moving water. This one was going to be different; a good test of how I would handle the forceful, cold water of the Colorado. I’m wearing a dry top and swim suit. No wet suit. Even though water temperature is only in the upper 50s the first few days, daytime air temperatures range from 95ā° to over 100ā° F. A wet suit would be good to have on during a swim but way too hot for a long day of paddling.
I roll over, reach for the spray skirt grab loop and pull. The force of the raging current helps suck me out of the kayak. Popping to the surface and holding onto my kayak and paddle, I’m relieved to see I’m finally flushed out of the hole. Within seconds I see Big Mike on his way to intercept me. I grab the back of his kayak, trying to make myself flat in the water so I can kick my legs as he tows me to shore on river right. It just happens to be where the rafts are beached in preparation for lunch. Wet, tired and chilled, I sit on the beach, catch my breath and quickly warm up and dry out in the brilliant Arizona sunshine. Lunch (salad on a tortilla) never tasted so good. Thankfully, this would be my only swim of the trip.
A little more than a mile downstream from lunch we will encounter Hance. Only after running it does Mace tell us he considers it the most difficult rapid in the Canyon.
Next: Hance and Sockdolager
