Sept. 4, 2018. Tonight as our fourth day on the Colorado River comes to an end, we camp at Vishnu Creek just above Grapevine Rapid. It rains again this evening as we’re setting up tents, so afterwards we huddle together in a small rain-free spot formed by the overhanging canyon wall.
We’ve been making music almost every night thanks to instigator Timmy O’Neill plus the guitars and other instruments supplied by AZRA which Timmy thrusts into the hands of unsuspecting participants. Two of our vision team vets — Travis on guitar and Steve on bongos — nightly demonstrate their advanced musical chops. Alex, Big Mike and river guides Jon and Harley also know how to handle a guitar. The rest of us do our best to stay in rhythm with shakers, washboards and other noise makers. I fake my way on tambourine and a bit of harmonica. Timmy conducts with maestro-like skill, calling out changes in volume and tempo and urging specific instruments and soloists to the forefront. Made-up lyrics include light-hearted ditties about paddlers getting knocked over, a song about trip MVP Amy Byrd (“Amy, Amy, Amy”), and heavier lyrics about tackling this monster of a river without being able to see it.
DAY 5, Sept. 5
The conch shell blows at 5:45 a.m. I get up to pack a few things but make sure I get to the kitchen area before the coffee is gone. My breakfast choices are bagels with ham, boiled eggs and cantaloupe.
Soon after launching we hit our first rapid, Grapevine (an 8 on the Grand Canyon scale), just past mile 82. Our pod of four and all our kayakers handle it well. Then after about 3 miles of mostly flat water we hit a few “medium” size rapids: 83 Mile, Zoroaster, and 85 Mile. These are “mediums” by Grand Canyon standards but bigger than most of the rapids I paddle in the Midwest.
YOUTUBE: https://youtu.be/Pk4iT17YnM8
At mile 88 we pass under the Kaibab Bridge near the trail to Phantom Ranch, and a mile later we’re under the Bright Angel Bridge, which marks the bottom of the famous Bright Angel Trail. We beach the kayaks and rafts at Pipe Creek for a planned rendezvous and exchange. It’s good-bye to Alex Nielsen (Lonnie’s Bedwell’s guide during his first descent through the Grand Canyon in 2013) and Bill Frake as they begin their 7.8 mile, 4460 ft. hike up and out of the canyon and back to civilization. We relax for about 90 minutes waiting for their replacements who are hiking down the trail from the South Rim — Charlie Mace (international mountain guide and our trip leader’s father) and Mark Fratoni. (Bill and Mark are both veterans who work for Jabil, one of the corporate sponsors of our trip.)
While we wait at Pipe Springs, I talk with Steve Baskis and invite him to Green Bay in January as the featured speaker for the annual meeting of our regional paddle club, Northeast Wisconsin Paddlers (NEWP). Steve agrees and he’s on the NEWP calendar for January 26, 2019.
Horn Creek is our next big rapid (a 9 on the Grand Canyon scale). At lower water levels, it forms very large waves and hydraulics and is one of the most difficult rapids in the canyon, requiring a right to left downstream pull to miss the rocky right shore. Dark walls rise raggedly on both sides. A big clean tongue enters the rapid on the right and flows into big breaking waves and finally into a monster wave hole. One strategy is to enter on the tongue, then get left of the bottom hole. Another route is to enter between two horns at the top left of the rapid, punch some big waves then stay left of the bottom hole. The waves throughout the rapid are quite powerful. For our pod it’s a wild ride! I roll and end up behind the others, but Steve, Eric and Big Mike make it through without incident.
YOUTUBE: https://youtu.be/4AqJg1t8KYA
Here’s a Google 360 view of our Team River Runner crew negotiating Horn Creek. Click on the photo to take a look around:
After lunch stop at 91 Mile Creek comes Granite (rated a 9), which Lonnie describes earlier that day as “a real s##t show.” It turns out to be an accurate description. Nothing but chaos from the start and big waves from all directions. I get knocked over and this time I’m over for what seems like a long time as I wait for quieter water before attempting my roll.
A mile and a half later is another challenge, Hermit Rapid (rated an 8). I manage to stay upright but Steve gets knocked over and quickly rolls up. He’s knocked over again and this time makes several unsuccessful roll attempts. I’m the closest one to him and I’m getting nervous. I move in to attempt a hand-of-god rescue just as Steve pops back up, to my great relief.
Tonight we are safely on dry land, camped at Schist Camp at mile 96.5 with 129.5 miles to go over the next seven days. Dinner is steak, mashed potatoes, broccoli, and for dessert spice cake from the Dutch oven. Amazing food for a wilderness experience.
I’m continually awestruck by the beauty of our surroundings. Throughout this trip as I talk with Steve, Kathy, Travis, Brian and Lonnie, I keep in mind a challenge that Lonnie extended at the outset to all the guides: “Don’t just tell me it’s beautiful. Tell me why it’s beautiful.” It’s a great piece of advice, and not just for sharing experiences with the visually impaired. Thinking and then speaking about why something is beautiful sharpens your mind. It forces you to dig deeper into your own thoughts, thoroughly analyze and process what you’re seeing, hearing and touching, and how that makes you feel. It helps you form lasting memories of the things that matter the most to you.
Tonight as darkness takes over the canyon, laughter and music echoes off the canyon walls as we share music and stories about today’s events, especially our runs through Granite and Hermit. Each person’s story is different. Each adds another layer of perspective to our shared experience on the river.
YOUTUBE: https://youtu.be/VLLJEeM9JZQ
