Thursday, September 6
Our sixth day in the Canyon. Last night our camp was at mile 96.5. This morning we’re up at 5:30 a.m. anticipating another day of big rapids, including a series known as “the Gems” because they’re named after precious stones. The rapid we’re most concerned about today is Crystal, rated a 10 on the Grand Canyon scale of 1-10.
Crystal has gone through more changes in “personality” over the past 50 years than any other rapid in the canyon. Prior to 1966 it wasn’t even considered noteworthy among all rapids on the Colorado River. That all changed in December 1966. This excerpt from Grand Canyon Association History describes the dramatic changes that have taken place:
In December 1966 a storm unlike any witnessed before, dropped over 14 inches of rain in some places along the north rim. All this water sent debris flows crashing down side canyons. Prospect, Nankoweap, Bright Angel, and Lava-Chuar Canyons all experienced them, but none as large as the one that came down Crystal Canyon. During that December storm Clear Creek flowed at a rate of 10,000 cubic feet per second! An impressive statistic considering the average annual flow for the Colorado River is around 11,400 cubic feet per second. A river of mud literally blocked the Colorado River. When the storm had passed, the debris fan constricted the Colorado to less than a quarter of its original width, and a large boulder at the top created one of the largest holes on the river.
Crystal became a feared, raging monster and remained that way for the rest of the 1960’s, ’70s and early ’80s. It changed personality again in 1983.
In June of 1980 Lake Powell filled for the first time. For the Bureau of Reclamation a full reservoir was an ideal reservoir, so they kept it that way. In the spring of 1983, officials left enough room in the reservoir for the average annual runoff to completely fill it, but that year proved anything but average. A cool spring, combined with a heavy snowpack, meant the bureau had to deal with the king of all floods by late June. The bureau’s nightmare translated into one wild ride downstream. At Crystal Rapid, a flow of 70,000 cubic feet per second birthed a standing hydraulic wave that ran across the river. The three-story behemoth flipped boats left and right, and many people died. For the first time the park superintendent was forced to close a stretch of the Colorado River, and did not allow passengers to run Crystal Rapid.
The rapid changed after the 1983 flood, and so did management at Glen Canyon Dam. At Crystal Rapid a large amount of debris had washed downstream of the newly formed delta, and created the rapid’s latest obstacle, the “rock garden.” The rapid is still changing, but will likely remain the greatest challenge to river runners at Grand Canyon. It is said that Crystal Rapid has caused more damage and death than any other rapid in Grand Canyon, and yet for some reason boatmen still dream of the chance to test their skills at Crystal. It is truly an amazing place, and one that most river runners never forget.
After hiking up to scout from river right, trip leader Steve Mace explains the best line.
Our run through Crystal starts out great. We drop down the tongue in a good, tight formation — Eric Carlson in the lead, followed closely by blind vet Steve Baskis, “Big Mike” Plourde and then me. But as soon as we reach the first big lateral waves, we get spun around. Steve and Big Mike end up behind me with Eric still out in front. Then Eric goes over. I watch as he attempts several rolls, only to be knocked down each time.
Behind me Big Mike pulls up tight to Steve and barks out “on me!” voice commands to keep Steve oriented in the chaotic waves. I see Eric’s white helmet pop up out of the water next to his kayak. He’s swimming and he’s too close to the rocky wall in this big nasty mess. I charge forward and just as I get close to Eric, I capsize. Up-side-down, I feel the full force of the waves slam me from side to side. It takes me a couple of roll attempts to get upright. When I come up, we’re in a relatively calm spot but only halfway down the rapid. I approach Eric and spin my kayak around so he can grab the back handle. With no eddy in sight I tell him to hang on. We’re heading for more turbulence just left of the rock garden at the bottom.
Once again the waves grow ferocious. I’m able to pull Eric away from the rock wall on river left, but after 45 seconds of towing Eric, the waves combine with Eric’s weight to pull me over again, forcing Eric to let go. I rush my roll attempts. One roll, back down. Second roll, back down again. Third roll, still no good. “Okay, we don’t need another swimmer,” I think to myself. “Take your time. Set up. Keep your head down.” Fourth roll, head down, and I’m finally up. But now where’s Eric? I look back upriver and see him being towed by Scott Kelly. Or was it Chip Sell? Steve and Big Mike are downriver, safely past the rapid. We eddy out to gather up and take stock as one by one, each pod of kayakers exits Crystal.
I look over at Eric. He is visibly shaken. He tells us that he hit his head on the canyon wall and swallowed a lot of water. He decides to ride a raft for the rest of the day. Steve considers joining Eric on the raft so Mike and I try to reassure him. Steve agrees to keep paddling but I can tell he’s nervous that Eric won’t be out front.
YOUTUBE: https://youtu.be/cSmzAwlfQjM
The rest of the day we paddle on through a series of medium rapids: Tuna Creek (5), Lower Tuna (4), 100-Mile Rock (5), followed by the gems: Agate (2), Sapphire (7), Turquoise (5), 100 Mile (6) and Ruby (6). I capsize in one of these rapids; I don’t remember which one. While I’m inverted and setting up to roll, waves push me into Steve. The bow of my kayak strikes his left hand. It’s the same hand he severely injured during the explosion in Iraq that took his eyesight in 2008. I can tell his hand hurts like hell and I feel terrible. Steve says he doesn’t think there are any broken bones but the incident is enough to convince him to ride out the rest of the day on a raft.
YOUTUBE: https://youtu.be/BjXzGCpfoJk
YOUTUBE: https://youtu.be/PlZ0wNblf68
At mile 109.5 the entire group stops for a welcomed break. Mace leads us on a hike up Shinumo Creek and into a beautiful narrow canyon with clear 80⁰ water. We arrive at a small waterfall that cascades into a pool — a wonderful playground for everyone. I follow others and wade across the neck-high water to a dark opening at the bottom of the waterfall. One by one we crawl up through a short but narrow tunnel that leads behind the waterfall. We jump into the waterfall and slide down into the pool. Fantastic fun! Feeling even more adventurous, Russell and Timmy climb all the way to the top of the outcropping and jump 15 feet into the pool. Always up for a challenge, Lonnie wants to make this jump too so Russell and Timmy lead him to the top and guide his jump into the pool.
YOUTUBE: https://youtu.be/nTt-ycymZVk
A few miles later we hit the last big rapid of the day — Waltenberg (8). Once again I roll in a big rapid. This time I’m upright before anyone sees me so I keep this one to myself. I’ve already gained a reputation as having the most rolls so there’s no point in providing further proof.
We make camp at mile 119.5, a beautiful site framed by sheer walls that elevate more than a mile up to the Kaibab Plateau on river right and the Supai Monocline on river left. Dinner tonight is beef tips, pita bread, zucchini and birthday cake in honor of Joe Mornini’s 66th birthday. At least I think it is. We’ve been saying and singing “happy birthday” to Joe for the past three days. It’s become a standing joke. As I lie in my tent, the end-of-day chatter and laughter resonates from all directions. I’m so thankful I’m here on this trip of a lifetime.
Next: Day 7: Bedrock and Deer Creek
