Perfect Day on the Verde

During our recent four-week RV trip, we spent most of our days hiking near Sedona and our nights camped at Verde Ranch RV Resort, nestled between I-17 and the Verde River outside of Camp Verde, AZ. We hiked a total of 91 miles on gorgeous trails all around Sedona, Camp Verde and elsewhere. But I also had my TRAK folding kayak along in its carrying bag in the rear compartment of our RV. I wanted to use my TRAK at least one day. The Verde River seemed like the perfect place.

The Verde (Spanish for “green”) is becoming known as a recreational mecca for outdoor enthusiasts. It’s one of Arizona’s only two designated Wild and Scenic Rivers. Fossil Creek is the other. The Verde connects several parks, preserves, national forests and monuments totaling more than half a million contiguous protected areas.

There are many well-marked access points along the Verde, making it easy to plan a day trip. For my day trip I scout online using Google Maps to look for any obstructions or major rapids. Next I check out informative maps and river information offered by Verde Valley Land Preservation and available at the Friends of the Verde River website. And finally, two days before I launch, Mary and I drive “Eddy” (our camper van) to check out three possible access points. I want to make sure the roads and parking are suitable for our 24-foot RV so Mary won’t have any problems picking me up at the end of my paddle. At two of these access points I also chat up local paddlers for additional river beta.

Getting to the put-in is easy; it’s just a five-minute walk across the campground to a short trail that leads to a channel off the main river. I roll my TRAK in its roller bag to a shady spot at the riverbank to assemble it. The fast-moving current makes an abrupt left turn around a strainer just a few feet downstream from one of the only accessible spots, so I assume launching might be tricky.

It is.

As soon as I pull my feet into the cockpit, the current sweeps me away and I find myself sideways against the strainer, which consists of a branches and sticks piled up against a downed tree. Not yet five seconds into my trip, over I go. The water in the side channel at this point is only about three feet deep so I get out and drag the overturned kayak to the opposite shore. I dump the water, recombobulate, and in a few minutes I’m on my way again.

The rest of the paddle is less eventful but beautiful and enjoyable. The 15-mile stretch of the Verde that I chose consists of scenic paddling along long pools, interspersed with numerous manageable riffles — probably class II+ at most. Just enough twisty, moving water to keep things interesting in a 16-foot folding sea kayak.

Here’s the GPS track of my paddle on the Verde. You can click on the image to view an interactive map.

From the Friends of Verde River Paddle Guide: “Verde River flows can vary widely during any year or season. Low flows (<100 CFS) are typical, and boating is challenging if flows are <50 CFS. During the early summer months, the section between Clear Creek RAP and Beasley Flat may be the only boatable segment in this guide. Autumn through spring months provide the best boating flows. Floods can occur during spring snowmelt, after rain-on-snow events or following summer storms. Do not paddle during flood events.”

On my day (March 8, 2021) the Verde is running at 175 CFS, considerably below the 43-year median daily flow of about 600 CFS. Nonetheless, along this stretch of the river I bump bottom only a few times, although I cringe a bit each time, anticipating damage to my TRAK folding kayak. However, a quick stop to inspect the hull reassures me. The skin is remarkably tough, military grade material.

It’s a beautiful, amazing, wonderful day. Five hours and nearly 16 miles of solo paddling an unknown (to me) river. Anticipating what might lie around every bend. Choosing which channel to follow whenever the river splits, as it often does, before rejoining to continue the journey.

When I arrive at Clear Creek — one of the possible take-outs Mary and I previously scouted — I decide I’m not ready for this experience to end. I get out to stretch my legs. I dig out my phone from a dry bag and call Mary. I ask her to pick me up at 4 p.m. at Beasley Flat. Beyond that point the Verde will turn into wilder and bumpier Class III and IV whitewater. Some day I’d love to come back to take on that section in a whitewater kayak with experienced local boaters.

For now, this day on the Verde has been perfect.